A little more of the menu

Not a huge amount of time on my hands, kids birthdays to sort, life, packing for Noma next week. It's all go, and January was supposed to be quiet, ah well, never a dull day I guess.

Gareth has returned from his week at Noma, impressed by what he saw, but gobsmacked with how labour intensive running the 'best restaurant in the world' is, all the paid chefs, and some 20+ stagieres, he has retailed me with tales of pine needle prep, and his scariest job, veal threads!!! No I had no idea what he was on about either...

They were given the veal, an had to deconstruct it, thread by thread, each one no larger than a hairs breadth, hmmmm don't know whether I am looking forward to it as much now, jus' kidding. I will leave the rest of his telling to his post, which I am sure he will put up as soon as he has caught up on some sleep.

Anyway, a couple more dishes for you, got to go, need to find my travel plugs, now where are they?





Clockwise from top left
Fennel, Seville orange, almond
Olive roasted monkfish, spring onion, kale
Crisp oxtail, smoked eel, artichoke and cauliflower


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DUCK!

Just wanted to share this, will be a few more along soon.





Duck confit, pommes sarladaise, endive, duck egg.

Simple, tasty, compact.

Bit like this post really.

Back soon

Location:Duck confit, new year dishes

New year, new dishes, new tech, new doodles

1st week back at work.............Done!

Now we are unpacked, stale culinary cobwebs dusted away, mojo found and put in a safe place, resolution to keep a better eye on it. Ideas scribbled on every available piece of paper, new menu written and mis en place begun.

As I was compiling thoughts for our new menu starting next week I thought it was time to get my little felt pens out and start the KP nightmare of colouring in plates as I started by seeing if the elements would fit into the dish.

Then I thought where my pens might be I stumbled across a great little app for the pad, a simple one allowing me to sketch dishes and doodles with a huge array of features for the princely sum of £1.79 (sketchbook pro), Almost the only complaint I have with it is it doesn't make me draw any better, a huge downside for a non pencil artistic person such as myself, but hey let's give it a go anyway, so ideas a plenty and learning as I go I came up with the following sketch which then translated into the dish below it.

I am very content with the fact that It can help me visualise dishes but labour wise, don't think it will see the death of the pen on plate, sorry to my KP's simply because if I am trying to get an idea of what a plate of food is going to look like on the train then the pad is the way forward, but usually it's in the kitchen, not enough time at my disposal, and a quick throw down just to see if it remotely works will do.

Either way, this is a huge amount of fun nonetheless.








Crisp lemon sole, herb tagliatelle, pickled vegetables, sauce soubise, onion glass

sloe gin - it's not always about food you know

In August, whilst on holiday in Cornwall, my family and I spent a damp miserable afternoon wandering the countryside harvesting some wonderful sloe berries. On our return I set to work with a little sugar and a bottle of gin.

The recipe I had asked for the sloes to be patiently pricked to release their juices during the soaking process, sorry this seems far too much like hard work for my liking so set to thinking of an alternative (lazy) way of achieving the same result, so I thought - freeze!! the water in the berry should expand and break the skin, so I set to lobbing a bag of berries in the freezer and doing nothing for a couple of days, when I took them out of the freezer I was amazed!!! Absolutely no damage to the berry at all, bother!

Still not having too much time on my hands, and even less inclination to spend the time pricking little holes in a never ending supply of sloes, I allowed them to defrost, the fruits felt very much softer and decided to gamble that it would be enough, I mixed my sugar and gin, put my sloes in an old sterilised martini bottle and poured the liquid on, 1st week in September religiously, weekly I shook the bottle, allowing myself the occasional peek (was a Rossi bottle so coloured anyway) and by mid November started to get concerned at the lack of colour.

About this time my wife developed pneumonia, and life got a little hectic, with 4 kids needing sorting, work that was getting busier week by week and Christmas preparations increasing, it felt, by the moment.

I had originally hoped for it as an aperitif for Xmas day itself, but since the aforementioned time, forgotten and neglected it has sat in my cupboard since, until today when I was rooting for something completely different, there it sat patiently waiting for some attention, I got it out, not without a small sense of trepidation, I might add. And thankfully upon pouring found the light Rose colour shown in the photo above. With great depth of flavour, lucky me.

I am sure that had I pricked them then the colour would have been richer, but hey, it's as lovely as i ever remember it and happy to see the new year in with a glass or 3. So my toast to you all again, Happy new year.

2010 last thoughts, looking forward by learning from our past

Starting now to wonder what the next year will bring, also thinking why do I only truly reflect at the turn of a year.

I tend to think about what has been achieved personally and professionally about this time each year and think ahead to what I hope to achieve again next year, but why now? After all it's only the changing of days, no real significance to the new year as a bookmark in my life or anything.

So I think next year will become the beginning of a era of constant strive and reflection, taking what I most recently learned and implementing the improvements there and then. We do this generally anyway, but more skin to the reflective thought process that is occurring now and not the quick absent thoughts it can receive the rest of the 362 ish days that the process normally gets.

I will begin, unsurprisingly, with looking closer to the land for inspiration, foraging more and getting the family involved (good excuse for a nice Sunday walk) trying to recall the names and uses for the many varieties of green that we absently pass each and every day, and taking this back into the kitchen and utilising natures bounty as and when the whim takes me.

The start of this education will of course begin at Noma at the end of January, but also hope to get some time in kent eventually with forager Miles Irving, who's company I hope to start working with in january.

I don't intend to leave the other ideas gathering dust, I will not be able to turn my workplace into a 23 course foraged heaven, my customers simply wouldn't understand, and I personally like great garnishing to accompany the meat and fish I very much love to cook. I hope to achieve a greater balance of dishes from all the avenues I have at my disposal.

And now with more portable, quicker technology at my disposal, aim to increase the post count exponentially without simply diluting the content, so that there will be greater reason to frequent.





Wishing all of you a very prosperous new year

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad from wherever I may be at the time

A little thought out to chefs at christmastime

Just thought I would use a quick opportunity to try my new Xmas gadget out and the downloaded apps I've extensively researched (at least 10 minutes) to help me with future food photography on the go with my iPad.

That's the idea anyway but the reality I guess will be a new learning curve and a good few co..... Sorry mean errors, but I know a lot of you are chefs who read this and completely understand, anyone else reading this, welcome to our world. It's a world that maybe should not be entered without trepidation, not that I wish to worry anyone, but any non-chef who has stumbled upon the chef website www.thestaffcanteen.com or has tried following the more hardcore chefs on twitter must have thought that the banter between us can appear somewhat intimidating to the non believer, not that I am going to bother explaining it here just thought I would make the difference clear.

Anyway as so many of my colleagues who work in hotels and venues that I have worked in, in the past are still toiling through this season, I sit here in the warm comfort of my lounge surrounded by family some chilling, some playing and at the moment some, not without too much excruciating pain, attempting our new family karaoke machine, ah well some gifts are destined to the 'regret I bought them' pile.

I have not worked a Christmas in 10 years, not a new year now in 2 years, and I count myself lucky for the job I hold. We closed on the 23rd and return open on the 4th of january, time in this industry where I our have never dreamed off such a holiday from my humble beginning in 1990.

I just want to acknowledge the chefs who's christmas, boxing and new years days are just another bloody day. Only difference is sod all is open but you. I have heard resounding echos of bah humbug from working chefs. Now whist they come across as complete grinches without an ounce of seasonal love in their bodies, whilst I'm tweeting of my xmas luck and joy, I just want you guys to know, I haven't forgotten the 'joy' of Xmas bloody turkey, smoked salmon plates galore, and trying not to cock up and curdle the brandy sauce, thinking of ya guys, hope you have a decent break sometime soon. Especially out to ex colleagues who I worked with at the following:





One Aldwych
Richmond arms at goodwood
Wentworth golf club
Berystede in ascot

Glad to now not be in the seasonal firing line, Glad to be working at the club I'm at now.




Here's to many more christmasses not at work next post (worth reading) will probably be from G when he returns from his stage at Noma. Looking forward to it myself, will have a little to scribble about when I go there at the end of the month.



Noma inspired: slow roast cauliflower with goat butter and spruce fir. Ridiculously simple, outrageously delicious

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Noma, book launch and a few canapes

About 2 weeks ago, quietly strolled into work after a couple of very nice, restful days off, put the coffee on and started to get my head in the game.

Shortly after, my GM walked in with a cheeky grin on his face, knowing this usually meant an oddball request from my Danish owner asked ‘what’s up?’, the answer I got I was not ready for.

He asked if I knew of the upcoming Rene Redzepi book launch at Freemasons hall, which I did, (I had decided not to go along due to usual work/family commitments, and due to the fact of me already owning his book, much cheaper on Amazon than ticket price, truth be told), he then asked if I would like to cater for it….

‘What???!!!”, there must be a good 600 tickets sold I thought, “are you mental”, I was told closer on 800, feeling a little faint now, thought a big fat ‘NO’, knowing the audience would be the cream of the crop of foodies/chefs in the UK, not that it bothers me cooking for any of these guys, but outside catering for that number, those people, if cocked up could keep my cooking well and truly ‘under the radar’ for the rest of my career.

“calm down, its only for 80-100 of them, guests invited by Visit Denmark”, a slight calm came over me, but still quite a daunting prospect as Rene was one of the invited guests. My mind was still saying ‘don’t do it’.

The brief was to canapé up, traditional Danish dishes, and as my club is home to the Danish Club of London, began to think about the flavours and combinations we could offer them, after all for a Welsh boy in London doing a VIP canapé party for the Danish ambassador, Rene and guests, still very daunting. I thought I would consult my Danish chef and see what her thoughts were, and what ideas we could garner between us.

When she arrived to work a short while later, I explained what had been asked and her quiet, calm answer was ‘I know.’ It was only then that I found out her husband was the director for Visit Denmark, and that this had been a home discussion between them for some time, bugger everyone is conspiring against me!!!

So I drew up the first menu draft:

Maple smoked quails eggs, sel rose

Traditional Gravadlax on rye bread

Pressed oxtail and potato terrine, style bikesmad (a traditional Danish fry-up or hash)

Plaice and remoulade, cubism with golden breadcrumbs

Roulade of ham, flavours of salad Russe

Boiled egg, mayonnaise and caviar

Kransekage – biscuit of almond paste

Chocolate dipped marshmallows

And off it went, I was told I still had to wait a couple of days for the go-ahead for the menu, so creatively was in limbo not knowing whether we would get the gig or not, foolishly I announced the opportunity on twitter to raptures of ‘good on ya chef’ and ‘excellent chef, great opportunity’ before it was even confirmed, and as it wasn’t confirmed felt I shouldn’t just order food in to test my ideas until the ok was given, not to mention I have a kitchen to run too, not sure if the guys would be so understanding of me doing canapé R & D for an event we may not do. Thankfully I only had to wait till that evening for the email saying they would love me to do it, so order sheet in hand and first squiggles on paper, set to develop my ideas that were only words on paper at this point.

Over the next few days I wrangled with a few ideas, the menu gradually falling apart with every test, amazing how nothing ever pans out on the plate as it does in your head, any way further down the line and a few more squiggles added to the list, I had dishes I was happy with and set to the process of logistics, we had a visit to the hall the week prior and started to flap as it is a gorgeous venue but a complete barn. We allocated our areas (kitchen & bar) and started to plan. I must point out at this juncture, that the small kitchen at the hall I have over to the bar (completely inadequate in size for neither man nor beast), and took the hundred foot hall to myself.

Prep continued and gradually I started to finalize each evolution of each canape.

On the day, the alarm went off at some horrifically early time; I stumbled out onto the train and wended my way in, nerves starting to increase.

First job on the day was to finish the Parma ham roulade, upon testing the carrot hadn’t come through enough, so decided to cut slightly thicker to add flavour and a little much needed crunch to the canapé, big mistake, upon trying to roll the previous days preparation, my first roll happily slid off the cling film and all over the bench and floor, please note I did NOT take a picture at this point. Legging it through the kitchen my staff being knocked in my wake, proceeded to strip all of the carrot off the prepared pea mousse and start again(unplannedjob,panicsetting in). Cracked this out quickly applied carrot and tried again, success!

I wish I had more tales of rescued cock-ups (now the day is over) but to be honest, whilst pushed the rest of the prep proceeded without a hitch, my sous chef Ricardo finished the last of the detailed garnish work, A friend Ben turned up mid morning and dove in with prep and slowly everything came together as planned. We loaded the car and moved to the site.

Upon arrival, we got into the room to find Phaidon staff, Rene and his team working through some details, this finished as we were off-loading and everyone dispersed. Rene had a pep-talk with his guys, and feeling a touch star-struck barely managed a nod as we discovered we had no tables to work on, on top of that the Noma guys also had nowhere to work and set their gear up on some chairs, hmmmm organisation… NOT. Took a wee while, but G managed to locate and shortly started wandering in with trestle tables we could work from.



So we set to work, 2 hours to go and 1000 canapés to plate on teeny royal Copenhagen china. Trying to take as many pics as possible as we went. Whilst finishing the garnish on the bikesmad I see a figure in the corner of my eye and it’s the man himself come over to introduce himself and his team, and happily and thankfully he is one of the most down to earth guys I have ever had the pleasure to meet, he took a little time for each of us and explained What he had been up to whilst in the UK, the guys with him were equally open and brought wondrous food at intervals such as pickled rose petals, amazing.

We plodded through the preparation and service began, thankfully all the canapés were well received and as Rene was busy catching up with life on his laptop, delivered him a few bites throughout. We spoke a little about doing a small Stage which he very quickly agreed and am very much looking forward to spending a week in his kitchen in January, which I guess should bring a many parted post in itself.

(Pictures:)

Classic gravadlax, mustard, lemon, fennel

soft boiled quails egg, caviar mayo, sel rose, shallot and rock chive

Smoked sea rout, jerusalem artichoke, apple and horseradish bubble, lemon balm
I will not write about the night itself, as this has been covered ad nauseum by far better wordsmiths than myself. One such article is HERE one perk of doing the party for Visit Denmark was the seats me and my team were allocated were front row next to the stage, the presentation itself was quite incredible Noma’s philosophy delivered clearly and concisely with insights into the thought process that drives the ‘best restaurant in the world’

Thank you for your time in reading this, I guess I probably wont be posting again this year as business (and family) will keep me far to busy, but I thank those of you who take the time to follow and read my blog, and all I will leave you with is that I have plans for the new year, including finally revealing the method and technique for the ‘anything fondant’

Take care, enjoy life, and eat well. And if I don’t get the chance to say again this year, a very merry Christmas to you all.

Alex.

Noma, a time and place in nordic cuisine

I know I have taken my sweet time with posting anything....

And now that I am, it is simply to inform you that a post is on its way

and not a usual post about new ideas and thoughts, but a reflection on a panicky couple of weeks and a great day and evening at the UK launch of

I was invited to do a canape event for Visit Denmark, which after quite a few trials and tribulations, turned into a great day. now its done and dusted can reflect on hits and near misses, the event went as I'd hoped with happy guests, time with the man himself and a great demo to finish the day off.

am in the process of cleaning and preparing the pictures taken throughout the preparation and service of the event, and am going to keep this hanging a day or two more.

Be back soon !!!!!!!

Holidays, apologies, the written word. Oh and a dish with lamb and carrots

Summer has been and gone, a much needed holiday in Cornwall was very welcome from the whole family and now we are back, re-charged and rearing to go.

Kind of...... sandy beaches........great surf.........

Sorry, sorry & thrice sorry. Body has returned, but the brain is taking a little longer.

Apologies for lack of posts, something which we will be addressing as our season warms up, lots of new ideas, thoughts and projects happening over the next few months so should become a more interesting read.

Now for the central piece of this posts heading, I have had a number of comments about the blog through the blog and also on Twitter regarding the food, and none negative, I thank you. however reading between the lines of a few comments probably the best I have had for the written word is 'interesting' and here I feel the need to explain a little about myself.

I left school not the most academic pupil, social life had taken a complete hold on me and the only thing that mattered was Friday and Saturday nights, consequently my grading was unclassified in English language, a well deserved mark for my efforts (or lack thereof). this I am sure is reflected in what I do on here. I have very little writing experience, but am quite well read and have a vague eloquence with the language of my birth. However I am open to constructive suggestion for improvements, after all I am writing this from my experiences and it is for you the reader, If I am not fulfilling the culinary aspect then you will depart, so help me fulfil the written role, should I not be clear on something, or digress too far then tell me, so as I can improve, so will your experience here, and perhaps you will all spend a little more time here. Thank you.

Finally and the reason you clicked your way here in the first place is a dish I conceived a few weeks ago, I wanted to do a simple lamb and carrot dish for a while, but had no clue where I wanted to go with it. The first port of call is usually to look at the main ingredient and see how many different ways it can be cooked and presented, then I had a though to do this with the main garnish.

so whilst the lamb, is a lovely sample of the animal from (ironically(ish)) Cornwall

the carrots are broken down into:

Carrot puffs

Carrot puree

Clear carrot jelly

Warm 'old school' carrot terrine

And a carrot 'anything' fondant

The puffs are pure juice, whipped with methyl cellulose and finished in a dehydrator, similar to a profiterole and could be filled if required

The puree is a traditional one, cooked in clarified butter, as the carotene does not appear to be soluble in the fat so the puree is a purer flavour, with a more vibrant colour.

The carrot jelly is a seasoned juice, agar filtered and set.

For the terrine, I cooked a selection of naturally coloured carrots (not the modified Dutch thingies we all know as carrot), these I set with standard carrot juice with a little agar-agar and gelatin

Finally the anything fondant, a recipe I am still not quite ready to give away.

The dish ate beautifully and with the small addition of a little (totally out of season) asparagus for a break in colour and a simple lamb jus, finished the plate off well I feel, and it seems my guests agreed as it sold very well for it's short 2 week lifespan on our menu.

Ah well that post turned out to be much, much longer than I anticipated, sorry about that. I will stop apologising now and get on with working on the new dishes. See you soon

A spoon-full of sugar (or chocolate in this case) helps the medicine go down.

It all started out with the simple idea of making a simple refreshing fruit cocktail and serving it in a sphere to capture the explosion waiting to happen when it bursts in your mouth.
I decided on the cocktail 'strawberry kiss', four simple ingredients - strawberries, cream, amaretto and rum.
Sounds refreshing, appetizing and to me like something everyone would like.
I went about mixing it up, reverse spherification style, garnishing with a  few chopped strawberries, white chocolate powder and a single leaf of micro basil.

Everything ended up how i imagine, nice burst of flavour, followed a fresh hit of basil and fresh strawberries.

I set up the tasting spoons for the canape party and left for the day......

The next day,
Half of them are still in the fridge???  didn't make sense. Turns out after speaking with the waiting staff the guests were scared of them. Ok maybe they were a bit older and not yet made it into the 21st century.....

but annoyingly it happened again, twice. hmmm. No one wants to put balls in there mouth it seems.
Not wanting to give up on this cos I was happy with them, I decided to be a little devious and camouflage them....

Next time I gave the sphere's an extra minute in the aglin bath to give them a little bit more strength, for all the extra handling they were about to get.
Once 'cooked', I drained them, dried them carefully and when rolled them in a mixture of finely grated dark chocolate and cocoa, then carefully picked them up again and dusted off the excess and then lastly into the tasting spoons ready to go.
 Rather delicate work, It was a good thing a had quite a few spares.



Well, the camouflage worked and the guests licked the spoons clean. Finally.


Not one to make my life easier, I'm gonna stick to the triple handling chocolate rolling method. It gives the canape another dimension, texture and in the end and more importantly... happy customers.


This week I've got a chefs choice canape party where I'm going to do a liquid chocolate bon bon,  I'm just changing the center to a dark and milk chocolate liquor and rolling in the chocolate powder mix. In all 4 different types of chocolate.

Just wondering where I can take this to next......